Should You Choose Ammonia-Based or Ammonia-Free Dyes?

Hair dyeing involves more science behind it than you think. For example, typical hair salons offer ammonia-based and ammonia-free hair dyes for customers. What is the difference between the two, however? Is one better than the other, or are they the same?

Find out in this bite-sized article!

All About Ammonia

Ammonia has been used as a key ingredient for hair dyes for years. This molecule makes your hair follicle swell and open so that it becomes absorbent. Since dyeing hair is a process that happens by a chemical reaction, the ammonia is the agent that helps the hair soak in the dye effectively.

As a result, long lasting and deep hair dyeing become possible, since hair colour is greatly linked to the hair inside out. Ammonia also helps to lighten hair colour because it works with your natural hair colour and the protein melanin during the process.

Ammonia molecules are tiny, so they evaporate faster. The speed of evaporation is most likely the reason behind the strong smell you get when you dye your hair, and even for some time after.

The composition of ammonia offers fast, simple and thorough rinsing when you need to get rid of the colouring agents in your hair.

The Ammonia-Free Alternative

Don’t be mistaken – although ammonia-free products don’t contain ammonia molecules, they still have certain alkaline ingredients like monoethanolamine (MEA) or aminomethylpropanol (AMP). Always remember that being ammonia-free does not equate to being alkaline-free.

These ingredients work as an alternative p H regulator in hair dyes, used in a more diluted form and mixed with oils to make the dyeing healthier for the hair. They are closely related to ammonia, but are larger in size and don’t cause the hair to swell as much.

The larger the molecule, the less capable it is of saturating and penetrating into the hair follicles.  Hence, they don’t facilitate as much dye to seep deeply and quickly into your hair.

Don’t be surprised if you experience results that aren’t as strong as ammonia-based hair dye – think less vibrant colours and colours that don’t last as long.

The ingredients are also less volatile than ammonia-based hair dyes. This means that they don’t evaporate as quickly, so they won’t smell as strongly. If you mind the smell, or have a sensitive nose, this may be a better choice when dyeing your hair.

Do note that the slower evaporation can lead to a slightly more difficult time rinsing out the colouring agent. Sometimes, a residue can remain despite a thorough wash, and you may need several more washes to remove the residue completely.

No matter what hair dye products you choose, remember to use aftercare methods and products like using shampoo made for coloured hair. You should also stick to your regular hair conditioning treatments. These daily hair care methods help to prolong your hair colour and promote your hair health.